- Most of my jobs involve ladder work. Except for cases of ground trapping, most cases of wildlife removal involve animals that have invaded homes or
buildings, usually the attics, and I need to address the problems high up, where the animals get in. This calls for ladder work.
I carry three standard ladders on
my truck. One is just a 6' stepladder, which I mostly use to enter ceiling attic hatches inside homes. I also use it for work repairing under eaves of single story
homes, and other home repairs for which I only need a few extra feet of height. The second ladder is a 24' extension ladder, which I use the most. It's good for
most roof and eave work on two story homes. The third ladder is a 32' extension ladder, seen in the leftmost and rightmost photos above. The 32' allows me to work
on three story buildings such as these apartments. Sometimes I need other ladders, and I own eight ladders total. The largest ladder that I can handle by myself is
a 40' ladder. It took me a couple of years to be able to use this large ladder. It's very heavy and cumbersome to use. It requires both strength and good
balance to carry and set. In the middle photo, I'm seen working on the 40' ladder.
When I started this business, I realized that the greatest dangers to my safety
would not come from animals. I knew that I stood a far greater chance of injury in a truck accident or from falling off a ladder than from an animal attack. Thus, I
have always been very careful with my ladder use. True, I have never used any kind of extra safety equipment. I have mostly just used common sense and carefulness.
First of all, it's important to have an open space with flat ground. Believe me, I've faced thousands of ladder challenges from trees, strange architecture, and sloped
ground. Next, the ladder should have a firm surface to lean on, and the angle should be about 30 degrees. I always shake the ladder a few times to make sure that it
is solid before I climb.
I remember the very first tall ladder that I climbed so that I could work on a bat job on a roof. It was the summer of 2001, and I was a
tad nervous climbing about 25 feet onto a roof. However, I quickly got over my concerns, and now I am willing to climb any ladder in any situation, so long as I believe
the ladder is sturdy.
I've never had a ladder accident, or any close calls that I know of. There's a lot of dangers, especially when climbing off the ladder onto
the roof and vice versa. That's a dangerous transition. Also, ladder users must keep in mind the dangers of electrical power lines. It's a good idea to wear
non-slippery shoes. But most of all, it's just important to be careful and always pay attention. That's about it.
Remember, the most important step in a total wildlife control solution is to stop the source of the problem - if you have wild critters in your attic or home, the only way to permanently solve the problem is to close all the entry points! This is a special
skill, and it requires extensive knowledge of both architecture and animal behavior. Being a skilled repairman also helps. All repairs should be done in such a way that keeps animals out for good - this often means sealing with steel, and sealing openings
so that they are airtight, with no trace of airflow for animals to detect. Remember, rodents can gnaw through almost anything, and raccoons can tear through almost anything. While it's important to trap and remove animals, and clean up the waste they leave
behind, the most important step in solving the critter problem and in keeping animals out forever is to identify and repair every last critter access point into the building. Without this crucial step, the job isn't complete.
Start a Career! Visit my How to Get a Job in Wildlife Control page for info on doing what I do.
Do it yourself: Visit my How To Get Rid of Squirrels page for tips and advice.
Get professional help: Visit my Nationwide Pro Directory of wildlife removal experts.